Growing Tomatoes In Pots: Growing tomatoes in pots
Showing posts with label Growing tomatoes in pots. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Growing tomatoes in pots. Show all posts

5 tips for ... growing tomatoes in pots



5 tips for growing tomatoes in pots 

 

1. Choose the Right Container Size and Material (Bigger Is Better)

Tomatoes are deep-rooted plants and need generous space to produce abundant fruit. While small pots might keep the plant alive, they greatly limit growth and yield.

Why pot size matters

Large pots hold more soil, which:

Guidelines

Materials

  • Plastic or resin: keeps moisture longer

  • Fabric grow bags: excellent drainage and air pruning

  • Terracotta: looks great but dries out faster (water more often)

Make sure your pot has multiple drainage holes. Tomatoes hate sitting in water.

2. Use Nutrient-Rich, Well-Draining Soil (Never Garden Soil)

Tomatoes in pots rely entirely on what you give them. Garden soil gets compacted and suffocates roots, so always use a high-quality potting mix built for containers.

Ideal mix

Boosters at planting time

A rich, airy soil foundation means stronger plants, deeper roots, and better fruit.

3. Water Deeply and Consistently (The #1 Secret to Healthy Tomatoes)

Watering is the biggest challenge in container gardening. Pots dry out quickly, and inconsistent moisture leads to cracked fruit, blossom-end rot, and stunted growth.

How to water properly

  • Water slowly and deeply until it drains from the bottom.

  • Do not sprinkle lightly — tomatoes need deep saturation.

  • Water every 1–2 days in hot weather, sometimes twice daily in small pots.

  • Check the soil with your finger: water when the top 1–2 inches are dry.

Avoid problems

Pro tip:

Use mulch (straw, shredded leaves, wood chips) to keep the soil moist longer — a huge improvement for potted tomatoes.

4. Feed Regularly — Tomatoes Are Heavy Feeders (Fertilizer Matters)

Tomatoes in pots consume nutrients quickly because the soil volume is limited. Fertilizing on a schedule keeps the plant productive and prevents yellowing leaves or weak growth.

What to use

Fertilizing schedule

  • At planting: slow-release fertilizer + compost

  • Every 10–14 days: liquid fertilizer

  • During heavy fruiting: increase potassium for sweeter, larger tomatoes

Feeding consistently = more flowers, bigger fruit, and longer harvests.

5. Give Proper Support and Sunlight (The Key to High Yields)

Tomatoes grown in pots still need strong support — even compact varieties. They also require full sun to thrive.

Support options

  • Tomato cages

  • Tall wooden stakes

  • A trellis or string system for indeterminate types

Tie vines gently using soft ties or Velcro strips. Good support prevents broken branches and improves airflow, lowering disease risk.

Sunlight needs

  • 6–8 hours MINIMUM, ideally 8–10 hours

  • Place pots where they get morning sun and afternoon sun

  • Rotate pots occasionally for even light exposure

If your area is extremely hot, light afternoon shade can prevent leaf scorch.


OTHER SOURCES

Here are some tips for potted tomatoes. 

 1. Give them room. Most slicing tomatoes need a 5-gallon pot, though you can find cherry tomato plants that will do well in hanging baskets. Some varieties are specially bred to stay small enough for a tight container. Make sure the container has drainage holes. 

 2. Use good soil. In pots as in the ground, tomatoes need well-drained soil with lots of organic matter. Gensch likes to add a little bit of lime to provide extra calcium (which helps prevent blossom end rot). Put a couple inches of gravel in the bottom to stabilize the pot, because when the fruit sets the plant will be top-heavy. And add stakes or a tomato cage for support when you plant. 

 3. Plant deep. Leave only the top two or three sets of leaves above the soil line. The part of the stem that is buried will sprout roots that help support and strengthen the plant. 

 4. Fertilize properly. Choose a fertilizer that is not heavy on nitrogen (which fosters leaves at the expense of flowers and fruit). Phosphorus (for roots) and potassium (for blooms) are more important. Whether the fertilizer is organic or not, the guaranteed analysis of major elements on the label should be even, such as 3-3-3, or higher on the last two numbers, such as 4-6-5. 

 5. Water regularly. Tomatoes need consistent moisture; swinging between extremes of wet and dry can do them in. Be prepared to water daily. Gensch says water-holding gels (sold in crystal form and mixed in the soil) are especially good for rooftop tomatoes.

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Growing tomatoes in pots



Growing tomatoes in pots 

Growing tomatoes in containers is one of the best ways to enjoy fresh, juicy fruit even without a large garden. Whether you’re on a balcony, patio, or rooftop, potted tomatoes can thrive with the right setup. Below is a comprehensive guide covering varieties, soil, pot selection, planting, care, feeding, troubleshooting, and maximizing yields.

1. Choosing the Right Tomato Variety

While almost any tomato can be grown in a pot, some types do much better than others.

Best Varieties for Containers

Determinant (Bush-Type) Tomatoes

Indeterminate (Vine-Type) Tomatoes
Grow very tall but produce heavily.

  • Sweet Million

  • Sungold

  • Black Cherry

  • Better Boy

  • Cherokee Purple

Tip:
If your space is limited or windy, choose determinant/bush types. If you want big harvests all season long, choose indeterminate and add a tall support.

2. Best Pot Size & Material

Tomatoes need ROOM. Cramped roots = poor fruit.

Optimal Container Sizes

  • Cherry tomatoes: 3–5 gallons

  • Bush varieties: 5–7 gallons

  • Large indeterminate varieties: minimum 10–15 gallons

Good Pot Materials

  • Plastic or resin: lightweight, retains moisture

  • Fabric grow bags: excellent drainage, prevents root rot

  • Ceramic/terracotta: beautiful but dries faster

  • Large buckets (food grade): cheap and effective

Drainage is critical—ensure at least 4–6 holes in the bottom.

3. Soil: The Tomato Foundation

Never use garden soil in pots. It compacts and suffocates roots.

Ideal Potting Mix

Use a light, airy, rich mix:

  • 60% high-quality potting mix

  • 20% compost

  • 20% coconut coir or peat moss

Additives to Boost Growth

  • 1 cup worm castings (slow-release nutrients)

  • 1 handful perlite (improves drainage)

  • 1–2 tbsp bone meal (helps roots & flower development)

  • A slow-release fertilizer at planting time

4. Planting the Tomato Seedling

Tomatoes are unique—they grow roots along buried stems.

How to Plant Deeply

  1. Remove bottom leaves from the seedling.

  2. Dig a hole deep enough to bury 2/3 of the stem.

  3. Cover the stem and firm the soil.

  4. Water thoroughly.

This makes a stronger root system, essential for pot culture.

5. Sunlight Requirements

Tomatoes need full sun:

  • 6–8 hours minimum, ideally 8–10 hours for best yields.

If sunlight is limited:

  • Choose cherry tomatoes—they tolerate lower light better.

  • Move pots during the day if possible.

6. Watering Tomatoes in Pots

Potted tomatoes dry out faster than ground plants.

Watering Rules

  • Water deeply until water drains out the bottom.

  • Check soil daily during hot weather.

  • Keep soil evenly moist—never soggy but never bone dry.

Avoid overhead watering—wet leaves = disease.

Signs of Underwatering

  • Wilting

  • Dry crispy leaves

  • Blossom drop

Signs of Overwatering

  • Yellowing leaves

  • Fungus gnats

  • Mushy stems

7. Feeding (Fertilizing) Schedule

Tomatoes are heavy feeders.

Best Fertilizers

  • Balanced fertilizer (10-10-10) during early growth

  • High-phosphorus fertilizer (blossom/fruit stage)

  • Tomato-specific fertilizer (4-6-8 or similar)

Monthly Feeding Plan

  • Week 1 (Planting): slow-release fertilizer + worm castings

  • Week 2–6: every 10–14 days with liquid fertilizer

  • Flowering/Fruiting: switch to high-potassium fertilizer

8. Support: Cages, Stakes, Trellises

Even bush tomatoes benefit from support.

Options

  • Tomato cages

  • Wooden stakes

  • Trellis systems

  • String/stake system for indeterminates

Secure plants gently with soft ties.

9. Pruning for Maximum Production

For Indeterminate Tomatoes

  • Remove suckers (small shoots between stem & leaf).

  • Keep 1–2 main vines for airflow.

For Determinate Tomatoes

  • Minimal pruning—only remove damaged leaves.

10. Mulching Is Essential

Mulch helps prevent:

  • Water evaporation

  • Root overheating

  • Soil splash (reduces disease)

Use:

  • Straw

  • Wood chips

  • Shredded leaves

11. Common Problems & Fixes

Blossom End Rot

Dark spot on bottom of fruit.
Cause: inconsistent watering or low calcium.
Fix: keep soil evenly moist; add calcium supplement.

Tomato Hornworms

Large green caterpillars.
Fix: hand-pick or use BT (organic spray).

Yellow Leaves

Often from overwatering or nutrient deficiency.

Flowers Dropping

Causes:

  • Heat stress

  • Underwatering

  • Too much nitrogen

12. Harvesting Tomatoes

Pick tomatoes when:

  • Fully colored

  • Slightly soft to touch

  • Fruit pulls off easily

For best flavor, allow them to ripen on the vine.

13. Bonus Tips for Bigger Harvests

  • Rotate pots occasionally for even sun exposure.

  • Plant basil or marigold nearby to reduce pests.

  • Use self-watering containers for consistent moisture.

  • Add a layer of crushed eggshells for extra calcium.

  • Start with stronger seedlings instead of very young ones.


OTHER SOURCES

 This is my first attempt at growing tomatoes in containers, I have put the tomato plants in pots long the sun facing part of my house, you could just as easy put them on a balcony or on a windowsill, I bought plants from a local plant nursery and opted for four varieties of tomatoes, roma, cherry, beefsteak tomato and an Australian tomato called " Burkes Back Yard " , and is a form of the Rouge de Marmande. 

I did not opt too grow the tomatoes from seed, there are so many places you can buy quality, fungal free tomato plants at now, they supply a number of different tomato varieties that are hard to propagate from seeds, buying ready plants will help ensure your success and get you closer to the most important part which is the eating of your fruit. 

 The tomatoes came potted in small seedling pots, they need to be replanted into larger pots so the tomatoes have room to grow bigger. 

 One month later I have been watering the tomatoes about every three days, however as small fruit is now beginning to appear I have started watering the tomatoes daily.

 I have been removing some of the larger lateral leaves as well. 8 Weeks Tomato Plants Daily watering continues, the tomatoes are now well formed and each variety has taken on its unique shape, companion growing has been introduced with the addition of basil plants. 

 12 weeks yes we have tomatoes The tomatoes have continued to get bigger though have no signs of ripening yet. Some of the basil was attacked by snails and they have been asked to leave.
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5 Tips for Planting Tomatoes in Pots


5 Tips for Planting Tomatoes in Pots

 1. Choose the Largest Containers Possible 

Select the biggest pot as possible for your container tomatoes. The more space your tomato has to grow in, the healthier it will be.

Tomato plants grow quickly and as a result require plenty of water, sun, and food in order to accommodate that growth. Their speed means roots grow fast. Plants develop extensive root systems but in containers, their reach is limited. As a result, root systems in tomato pots can become root-bound. You can offset that problem by giving tomato plants a roomy home. You’ll have the most success if you use tomato pots that are 5 gallons or larger and that have at least one square foot of surface growing space. (Read more about choosing containers and pots for tomatoes.)

2. Choose Varieties Specifically for Containers

The best types of tomatoes to grow in containers are bush varieties, dwarf varieties, short-season varieties, and determinate varieties – for obvious reasons: they don’t get as big as other types of tomatoes, they mature faster, and they finish growing at a certain point in the season. Buy tomato seedlings rather than starting your plants from seed to give your container tomatoes a strong start. Extra tip: plant one plant per container so it doesn’t compete with other tomato plants or companion plants for space, water, and nutrients.

3. Choose a Healthy Potting Mix

Tomatoes grown in containers need a loose, well-drained soil with lots of organic matter. Successful gardeners recommend using a good potting mix rather than potting soil or garden soil.  Potting soil can be too heavy for containers. Soil harvested straight from the garden is most likely infested with fungi, weed seeds, and pests. Learn what to look for in a good potting mix and how to save money by making your own. Extra tip: moisten your potting mix slightly before planting.

4. Choose a Sunny Spot

Tomatoes need at least 6-8 hours of full sun a day. Before planting tomatoes in pots, choose a spot for your containers – one where they get enough light. Monitor the spot at regular intervals during the day to track exposure.

5. Choose Easy Access to a Water Source

One of the biggest dangers to container tomatoes is that the soil dries out. During a heat wave you may need to water them daily. Whether you set your tomato pots near your garden hose or you have a convenient way to water them with a pitcher or watering can, make sure you have easy access to a water source. You will use it!

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Growing Cherry Tomatoes




Growing Cherry Tomatoes

How to Grow Cherry Tomatoes

Cherry tomatoes are one of the easiest, most productive tomatoes you can grow. They thrive in containers, gardens, balconies, and warm climates.

1. Choose the Right Variety

Great beginner-friendly options:

2. Planting Conditions

Sunlight

  • 6–8+ hours of full sun daily

  • More sun = more fruit and better flavor

Soil

Temperature

  • Best growth at 20–30°C (68–86°F)

  • Don’t plant outdoors until nights stay above 13°C (55°F)

3. Planting

Starting Seedlings

  • Start seeds indoors 4–6 weeks before moving them outside

  • Transplant when seedlings are 15–20 cm (6–8 in) tall

Plant Deep

  • Bury 2/3 of the stem when transplanting

  • The buried stem grows extra roots → stronger plant

Spacing

  • Determinate (bushy) varieties: 45–60 cm apart

  • Indeterminate (vining) varieties: 75–90 cm apart

4. Watering

  • Keep soil consistently moist, not soggy

  • Water deeply 2–3 times per week

  • Avoid splashing leaves (reduces fungal problems)

  • Mulch to hold moisture

Sign of underwatering: wilting midday
Sign of overwatering: yellowing leaves, swollen stem base

5. Support / Staking

Cherry tomatoes grow fast and heavy with fruit.

Use:

Tie loosely with garden tape.

6. Feeding

Start feeding 2 weeks after planting:

Best Fertilizers

Avoid too much nitrogen → leafy plant, little fruit.

7. Pruning (optional but helpful)

For indeterminate varieties:

  • Remove bottom leaves touching the soil

  • Pinch off suckers growing between main stem and leaf
    This increases airflow and boosts fruit production.

Determinate/bushy varieties generally do not need pruning.

8. Common Problems & Solutions

Blossom End Rot

  • Black, sunken spots

  • Caused by irregular watering

  • Solution: water consistently, add calcium if needed

Cracking

  • Happens after heavy rain

  • Harvest early and let ripen indoors to avoid splitting

Leaf Spots / Fungal Issues

  • Improve airflow

  • Mulch

  • Water at the base, not overhead

Pests

9. Harvesting

10. Growing in Containers

Cherry tomatoes love containers!

Container Size

  • Minimum: 5 gallons (19 L)

  • Bigger = better

  • Drainage holes are essential

Soil

  • Use potting mix, never garden soil

  • Add compost and perlite

Fertilizing

  • Container plants need feeding more often (every 1–2 weeks)

OTHERS

Most cherry tomato varieties grow to be huge plants, so they’re generally not suitable for container gardening. Determinate cherry varieties are exceptions however, as they're almost bred exclusively for container gardening.

When transplanting cherry tomato plants into the garden, remove all but the top set of leaves on the plant and bury the entire stem all the way up to those leaves. This is step is important in growing cherry tomatoes, because it will establish a bigger root formation for the yet-to-be-huge plants. The entire stem that was burrowed will develop into one big root from which side roots are spawned. This will allow the plant to gather additional nutrients in the ground as well as make it stronger.

Tomato cages are recommended for growing cherry tomatoes because they will help capitalize on plant size and fruit production. A primitive cage can be homemade from fencing material or PVC pipes. A properly sized cage should be at least two feet across and six feet tall. Other types of support like stakes could also be used, but whatever you do use, be sure to set them up early- driving stakes into the plant roots right when they're about to fruit is not a very good idea!

Most cherry tomatoes varieties are extremely prolific, so fertilize often and regularly, about every 2 weeks or so. Water-soluble fertilizers like MiracleGro penetrate deep into the ground to maximize nutrient uptake from the roots. Thus they’re the easiest fertilizers to use when growing cherry tomatoes. Increase fertilization when the fowers first set to increase fruit production.

Preserving Your Harvest
We all know that cherry tomatoes make fabulous snacks when picked fresh out of the garden, but they also taste great when preserved. Dried cherry tomatoes are prepared by cutting each tomato in half and adding salt and seasoning (if desired). The tomato halves are then dried in a dehydrator, after which they could be stored for quite a while.

Dehydrators take the water content out of the tomatoes to make them preservable. The process also condenses tomato flavor, making dried tomatoes intensely flavorful. If you think fresh tomatoes taste good, then just wait until you taste them dried!

Regular dried cherry tomatoes can be preserved in olive oil and are great for Italian cuisine. Super sweet varieties like Sun Gold and Sweet Hundred taste almost like raisins when dried and are great for snacking. All in all, the experience of preserving your own harvest makes all serve to make growing cherry tomatoes more enjoyable.
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Why Grow Heirloom Tomatoes?






Why Grow Heirloom Tomatoes?

Why Grow Heirloom Tomatoes?

1. Incredible Flavor

Heirlooms are famous for their rich, complex taste.
Unlike many commercial hybrids bred for long shelf life or uniform color, heirlooms are preserved for flavor first — sweet, tangy, juicy, and aromatic.

2. Stunning Variety

Heirloom tomatoes come in a rainbow of shapes, sizes, and colors:

You get far more diversity than in typical grocery stores.

3. Open-Pollinated (You Can Save Seeds)

Heirlooms breed true.
If you grow a variety you love, you can save seeds and plant them the next year — no need to buy new plants. It also helps preserve rare varieties.

4. Better for Biodiversity

Growing heirloom varieties keeps older genetic lines alive.
This protects against the loss of diversity caused by modern commercial farming, which relies on relatively few genetically similar hybrids.

5. Unique Stories & History

Many heirlooms have been passed down for generations and come with:

Planting them connects you to gardening heritage.

6. Great for Home Gardens

Heirlooms thrive in backyard conditions where flavor and quality matter more than transport durability.
They’re perfect for gardeners who want:

  • Fresh eating

  • Big harvests

  • Interesting varieties

7. Often More Nutritious

Some heirlooms contain higher levels of antioxidants and phytonutrients, especially darker varieties like purple or black tomatoes.

8. Fun to Grow

Their quirks — unusual shapes, unpredictable sizes, and amazing colors — make gardening more fun and rewarding.

OTHERS

Growing Tomatoes in Pots
The most appealing feature of heirloom tomatoes is their complex flavor, which hybrid varieties tend to lack. Because the point of growing tomatoes is to eat them in the end, many gardeners value the highly prized taste of heirlooms over their shortcomings .

Starting Heirloom Tomato Seeds
You will most likely be starting heirloom tomato plants from seeds, because few stores carry heirloom plants for sale. Hybrids on the other hand, are overwhelmingly popular because of their reliability and productivity. You might find some heirloom varieties in your local nursery, but chances are that they do not carry the specific varieties you would like.

Because heirloom tomato varieties are not as disease resistant as modern hybrid varieties, care should be taken to minimize the exposure to diseases and harm in all steps of the growing process.

Heirloom tomato seeds should be sown in a soiless growing medium to minimize the risk of bacteria. After they are at least 6 inches tall, heirloom tomato plants must be hardened off before transplanting outside. The process of hardening involves a gradual, increased exposure of the plants to the outdoors. Hardening is needed because the plants are reared indoors and they are not used to the harsher conditions outside. Plants that are transplanted into the garden too quickly risk getting sunburns and windburns.

Hardening Off
To start the hardening process, choose a nice, calm day and leave the plants outside for two hours before bringing them in. After doing this for a few days, gradually increase the hours of exposure outside until the plants look ready. If done correctly, the plants should have grown a little bigger after this process. If at any time the plants receive burns (whitish marks on the leaves), bring them in for a few days before starting the process over again.

Transplanting into the Garden
Before transplanting heirloom tomato plants into the garden, remove all but the top two sets of leaves. Dig a deep hole for the plant and pad the interior with compost and if you want, add a few tablespoons of slow-release fertilizer. Set the plant in and bury the stem all the way up to the top two sets of leaves. This practice encourages root formation from the stem, resulting in a better root system that can take in additional nutrients.

Fertilization
Fertilize regularly (every 2-3 weeks), but do not overdo it. Organic fertilizers are preferred because they tend to bring out the best of heirloom tomatoes’ rich flavors. Most growers agree that the natural ingredients in organic fertilizers improve flavor more than chemical fertilizers, and flavor is what we’re looking for when growing heirlooms.

Watering
Watering plants should be best done in the morning when it’s cool. Hold the hose low and water the ground so as not to splash mud on leaves. An automated drip irrigator is a terrific watering system.
Pruning
Pruning the plants maybe something you should consider when growing heirloom tomatoes. Pruning off suckers is a tradeoff between decreased overall fruit production and increased fruit size and quality. Because flavor is such an important part of heirlooms, pruning might be worth it, especially for big-sized tomatoes. If you’re not satisfied with the fruit size or want to hasten fruit formation, then you should prune.

Saving Heirloom Tomato Seeds
If you want to save heirloom tomato seeds for next year from this year’s fruits, then different tomato varieties should be separated as far as possible to minimize cross-breeding, which can produce unexpected results.

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Growing Tomatoes in Containers



Growing Tomatoes in Containers

🍅 How to Grow Tomatoes in Containers

A Complete, Beginner-Friendly Guide

1. Choose the Right Container

Tomatoes need room for roots!

✔ Recommended container sizes:

✔ Container options:

Make sure the pot has several good drainage holes.

2. Pick the Best Tomato Varieties

Tomatoes for containers should be compact or high-yielding.

Best types:

● Determinate (bush) varieties

Grow to a fixed size and don’t sprawl as much.
Examples: Roma, Celebrity, Bush Early Girl, Patio, Tiny Tim

● Indeterminate (vining) varieties

Can still grow in containers but need strong support.
Examples: Sungold, Black Cherry, Sweet Million, Better Boy

3. Use High-Quality Potting Mix

Tomatoes love light, fertile soil.

✔ Use:

4. Planting Your Tomatoes

  1. Fill the container 1/3 full.

  2. Plant deeply—bury 2/3 of the stem. Tomatoes grow roots along buried stems!

  3. Fill soil to 1–2 inches below the rim.

  4. Install a cage or stake at planting time so you don’t disturb roots later.

5. Sunlight Requirements

Tomatoes need a lot of light.

✔ Ideal:

  • 6–8+ hours of direct sunlight daily

  • Warmth (21–29°C / 70–85°F)

If growing indoors, use a full-spectrum grow light.

6. Watering

Container tomatoes dry out fast.

✔ How often:

  • Daily in warm weather

  • Twice daily during heat waves

  • Keep soil consistently moist but not soggy

✔ Watering tips:

  • Water at soil level, not over the leaves

  • Mulch the top with straw or coco coir to slow evaporation

  • Self-watering pots are excellent for hot climates (like Indonesia)

7. Fertilizing

Tomatoes are heavy feeders.

✔ Feeding schedule:

Good options: tomato fertilizer, fish emulsion, seaweed extract.

8. Support & Pruning

  • Use cages, bamboo stakes, or trellises

  • For indeterminate types: prune side suckers to control growth

  • For determinate types: minimal pruning (don’t over-prune)

9. Troubleshooting Problems

🍂 Yellow leaves?

Overwatering, underwatering, or lack of nitrogen.

🟡 Blossom end rot?

Calcium imbalance + inconsistent watering. Water regularly.

🟠 Flowers but no fruit?

Too hot (>32°C), too little sun, or poor pollination.

🐛 Pests:

Aphids, whiteflies, caterpillars—use neem oil or insecticidal soap.

10. Harvesting

Pick tomatoes when:

  • Fully colored

  • Slightly soft to the touch

  • Easily twist off the vine

Container tomatoes often produce earlier because containers warm soil faster.

OTHER SOURCES
There are a lot of upsides to growing tomatoes in containers. With containers, you can to grow tomatoes almost anywhere. They provide additional flexibility in that you can control the growing medium, which will protect plants from pests and diseases. Not to mention that you can achieve amazing results that you could not have achieved otherwise.

All tomato varieties can be grown in containers. But the bigger the plant size, the more maintenance is required to upkeep the plant.

Choosing the Right Container
The minimum size container you should use is 5 gallons. Although you could go as small as 3 gallons for varieties like 4th of July, smaller containers mean more watering and more fertilization. Bigger containers are better in reducing the frequency of these needs.

You might ask, where do you find these containers? Look around the house and see if you’ve got any 5-gallon buckets lying around. If not you could always buy some containers at the store. 18-gallon Rubbermaid storage boxes are inexpensive ($3-4 at Walmart) and are big enough to fit up to 2 plants.

You may also look toward plastic grow bags as a cheap and convenient alternative to conventional containers. These are basically foldable bags that can stand upright when filled with soil. They come in all sizes from 5 to 20 gallons. They work well and are easy to clean up after the growing season has ended.

And if you’re desperate looking for containers, you could always grow tomato plants in bags of compost. No I’m not joking… just lay the 40lb bag flat on the ground, cut a square opening on the top surface, and poke some drainage holes underneath. Obviously this method is not suitable for indoors. Outdoors, set up a cage around the bag after the plant has been set in. If you desire, you can bury the bag with leaves or some other mulch for appearance and protection.

Container Growing Medium
There are a lot of options as to what growing medium can be used in containers. Regular garden soil and potting soil will work, but you can and should do much better than that. Many gardeners use professional growing mixes, such as those made by MiracleGro and ProMix. 

These are usually pricey, so the alternative is to make your own. The basic formula for a good mixture is 40% peat moss, 40% compost, and 20% perlite. The peat moss and perlite greatly enhances drainage, which is very important for container gardening. These ingredients come cheap when bought in big packages, especially at end of the season sales.

Watering
Growing tomatoes in containers is notorious for watering needs. Water evaporates faster in containers and need to be replaced constantly. Mulching will greatly reduce your watering needs. Grass clippings and red pine bark can be used for mulch. You can also set up a container watering kit to automate the watering process.

Fertilization
Fertilization is crucial for container success. Tomatoes grown in containers need to be fertilized more often, as much as once per week for the smaller containers. Chemical fertilizers like MiracleGro are ideal, because they work efficiently and reduce damage to your garden soil if used in containers.

Staking and Pruning
Stakes for container tomato plants should be set up on the outside (if that’s possible) where they could be set firmer into the ground, for wind protection. Pruning might be necessary if the plants are growing way too big.
Growing Tomatoes in Pots
Growing tomatoes in pots: how-to-grow-tomatoes-upside-down.

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