Growing Tomatoes In Pots: Growing tomatoes in pots

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How to Grow Organic Tomatoes in a Container

One of the greatest pleasures of summer is indulging in fresh, ripe, organic homegrown tomatoes. The quality of these tomatoes is in stark contrast to the bland, mealy varieties typically found in supermarkets. Even if you lack space for tomatoes in your garden, or do not have a garden at all, you can still cultivate tomatoes. Provided you have a sunny balcony, porch, or patio, you can enjoy garden-fresh tomatoes throughout the summer. There are three essential factors for successfully growing tomatoes in a container: the variety of tomato, the planting process, and ongoing care. By focusing on these three aspects, you will soon find yourself in tomato paradise.

Tomato Variety

Anyone who has observed tomatoes growing in a garden is aware that they tend to be large, sprawling plants. They require staking, caging, and pinching to remain manageable. Therefore, the first step when contemplating the cultivation of tomatoes in a pot is to ensure you select a variety that will thrive in container conditions. While it is possible to grow nearly any type of tomato in a container, some varieties are more adaptable and easier to manage than others. Generally, this means you should choose a compact, bushy plant (as opposed to a vining one) that is of an indeterminate variety. Indeterminate varieties produce fruit consistently throughout the growing season, while determinate varieties tend to yield all their fruit simultaneously. To determine whether a variety is determinate or indeterminate, consult the plant tag or catalog description.

Planting

After selecting the ideal plant, proceed to plant it. The initial consideration should be the container you intend to utilize. Generally, plastic or fiberglass pots are preferable for cultivating tomatoes. There are two primary reasons for this choice. Firstly, plastic and fiberglass, in contrast to clay pots, do not dry out as rapidly. Although tomatoes thrive in warmth, they certainly do not appreciate dryness, and dry soil significantly hampers fruit production. The second reason is purely financial: tomatoes require a relatively large pot (a minimum depth of eight inches is essential, while twelve or even sixteen inches would be optimal), and clay can become quite costly as you seek larger sizes. Plastic is affordable, even when searching for very large pots, and it is less likely to break compared to clay, which frequently does. For a very economical option (albeit not the most visually appealing), you can plant tomatoes in a five-gallon bucket. These are easily obtainable at home improvement stores. They are the ideal size, and the price is unbeatable.

Once you have acquired the appropriate pot, ensure that it has sufficient drainage. The tomato plant will decay if it remains in consistently soggy soil. Most commercially available pots already feature drainage holes at the bottom. For the five-gallon bucket, you will need to use a drill to create several holes in the bottom. If the pot you are using has large drainage holes, cover them with a piece of broken pot, a section of window screening, or a paper coffee filter. This will allow water to drain out while preventing soil from spilling onto the patio.

Any high-quality organic potting soil is suitable for tomatoes. Just avoid using soil taken directly from the garden, as it is too heavy for container gardening and will compact further as the season progresses. A good peat or compost-based soil, whether purchased or mixed from your own unique recipe, is ideal.

When planting the tomato, begin by placing some soil at the bottom of the pot, then position the tomato plant within it. It is essential to bury the stem (up to just below the lowest set of leaves) along with the roots. This practice encourages new roots to develop along the buried portion of the stem, resulting in a healthier plant. After positioning the plant at the appropriate level, fill the surrounding area with potting soil, gently firming it as you proceed. The soil should rise to approximately an inch below the pot's rim to allow for adequate watering. Once potted, provide a thorough watering and place it in its designated location.

Ongoing Care

Ensure that you water the plant regularly. The most effective method to determine when to water is to insert your finger into the soil. If the top two inches feel dry, it is time to water. One of the more challenging aspects of cultivating tomatoes in a pot is their need for substantial nutrients, as each watering washes some nutrients away from the soil. To address this issue, it is necessary to fertilize consistently, ideally using either fish emulsion or seaweed extract. Monthly applications are sufficient, but bi-weekly applications at half-strength are preferable. This approach will ensure a continuous supply of nutrients for the tomato plants.

Additionally, consider mulching and providing support. Even compact tomato varieties can benefit from some form of support. Options such as pre-formed tomato cages, stakes, or custom-made cages that fit the container are all effective choices. While mulching is less critical in a container than in a garden bed, it remains beneficial. Mulch helps prevent weeds from growing in your tomato pot and retains moisture, reducing the frequency of watering. The most effective mulches include pebbles, bark mulch, and straw. If you prefer to use the black or red plastic that many tomato growers advocate, simply lay it over the soil before planting your tomato, cut a slit large enough for the plant, and secure it with metal stakes.

Growing Tomatoes in Pots

Growing tomatoes in a container

Tomatoes are a widely loved garden vegetable or fruit. However, we often find ourselves pondering how one can cultivate full-sized tomato plants in a pot. Indeed, a reasonably sized pot is necessary, but this can be easily acquired.

Choosing a container of approximately 25-30 gallons made from resin, a plastic garbage container, durable plastic, or wood should suffice. Light-colored containers are preferable, as in certain hotter climates, darker containers absorb more heat, increasing the likelihood of root burn. Metal containers are also not advisable, as they can become excessively hot for healthy root growth, potentially producing toxins that could harm the plant.

Even if you have an adequate area for growing tomatoes, container planting is an effective method to avoid soil-borne fungal diseases. Utilizing a high-quality soil-less potting mix creates a nearly sterile environment for your tomatoes. Avoid adding compost to the pot or placing rocks at the bottom, as these could introduce potential diseases.

Preparing Your Pot:

Ensuring proper drainage is crucial to prevent root rot. Drilling holes in the bottom of the container facilitates adequate drainage. For pots of this size, a hole approximately ¾ inch in diameter should be sufficient. Covering the holes with a screen will prevent soil from escaping through these openings. It is not advisable to place the pot directly on the ground; elevating the pot above ground level can help prevent diseases from entering and damaging your tomato plants.

Location:

Position your pot in a sunny location. Tomatoes need around 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily for optimal growth and yield. In regions with high temperatures, providing some afternoon shade can also be beneficial for the plant.

Planting, Care and Feeding:

Once your container is positioned, fill it with soil-less soil up to 2 inches from the top of the pot. Incorporate a controlled release fertilizer into the upper 3 inches of the soil to nourish your plants throughout the summer. It is advisable to use supplements for areas with extended growing seasons.

A disease-resistant tomato variety is suggested, such as Big Beef or Better Boy. The dimensions of this container will enable you to cultivate nearly any full-sized tomato to its fullest potential. Each container can accommodate 2 plants, each with approximately 6-8 leaves. After planting your tomatoes, set up a cage to provide support as they grow.

If tomato plants are planted early in the season, wrap a layer of plastic around the cage and over the top for protection, ensuring to leave air holes for ventilation. When watering, the top of the tomato plant should be dry 3-4 inches below the surface before you water again. Cease watering when you observe drainage from the bottom of the pot. Once your tomatoes begin to bear fruit, water them daily, particularly on hot days. If the branches extend beyond the cage, gently tuck them back inside. Pruning is advantageous in cooler climates to maximize fruit yield, but in warmer regions, pruning is unnecessary as the leaves provide shade for the fruit.

As fall approaches, ensure that you harvest all your tomatoes prior to the first frost. They can be enjoyed as fried green tomatoes or placed in a box to ripen.

Growing tomatoes in pots...

Growing Tomatoes in the Home Garden

Growing Tomatoes in the Home Garden '

The problem is people who can't grow a yard full of decent grass think they can grow an acre full of excellent tomatoes!' Jake Vest, humorist. By Judy Sedbrook, master gardener, Colorado State University Cooperative Extension, Denver County Are you watching the snow fall and dreaming about summer and all of the tasty things that come with it? By following a few basic guidelines, you can easily and sucessfully grow the tomatoes for a summer salad or BLT' in your own garden.

The tomato plant is a tender, warm-season perennial that is treated as an annual for growing in summer and fall gardens. They will be ready to harvest in about 60 days from planting and just a few plants will provide enough tomatoes for most families. According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, four out of five people prefer tomatoes to any other homegrown food. Biologically a fruit, they are the most popular "vegetable" grown by American gardeners. Because they are eaten in such quantity, tomatoes rank number one in contributing nutrients to the American diet. Native to South America, the tomato was grown by the Aztecs and eaten mixed with chilies and other vegetables.

The Spanish conquistadors took the seeds back to Europe with them in the early 1500s and the tomato flourished in the Mediterranean area. The genus name of the tomato, Lycopersicon, means "wolf peach". This name arose from the belief in most of the rest of Europe that the tomato, a member of the nightshade family, was poisonous. By the mid-eighteenth century, the tomato was generally accepted throughout all of Europe and was given the species name of esculentum, meaning edible. Brought back to this continent by the early American colonists, the tomato was initially grown by avid gardeners such as Thomas Jefferson and became widely cultivated only after 1830.

LOCATION:growing tomatoes in pot (139617 bytes) Chose your garden site carefully. Avoid microclimates that may be too cold at night or too hot during the day.

The ideal garden for tomatoes receives full sun most of the day, is protected from the wind, has well-amended soil and is near a convenient water source. Raised beds are a good place to grow tomatoes. They require fewer pathways, leaving more space for growing. This method of gardening requires less fertilizer and compost and the soil doesn't become compacted from being frequently stepped on. Tomatoes also do well as container plants but will require more frequent watering. SOIL: Tomatoes need rich, well-drained soil.

The soil should be amended with organic matter, compost or a tilled-in cover crop such as rye, wheat, oats, or hairy vetch before planting season. A complete fertilizer that is not too high in nitrogen should also be added prior to planting. Too much nitrogen will produce large plants but few tomatoes. If you have grown tomatoes before, rotate your new crop to a spot where they have not been planted in at least the last four years.

VARITIES: Tomato plants available for purchase are usually hybrids of popular types including Celebrity, Early Girl, Big Boy, Fantastic, and Big Beef. For less common selections, seeds of many varieties are available from seed catalogues. Varieties recommended for this area are Big Boy, Good-n-Early, Lemon Boy, Spirit, and Yellow Stuffer.

STARTING FROM SEED: Using a sterile, soil-free potting mixture, start tomatoes indoors six to eight weeks before the frost-free date (May 15th in our area). Germination will take 7 to 14 days at 75° to 80° F. Give the plants as much light as possible, either in a south window, or for more uniform results, under artificial grow-lights for at least 14 hours a day. As the seedlings grow, transplant them into larger and larger containers, each time burying the whole stem below the first set of leaves. The tomatoes will send out roots from the buried stem and will have developed a strong root system by the time they are ready to be planted outdoors. Move your seedlings outdoors for a few hours each afternoon to get them acclimated, or hardened-off, before actually planting them in the garden.

TRANSPLANTING: After the danger of frost is past and temperatures are consistently above 50° F at night and 65°F during the day, transplant your tomatoes into the garden. Space them as directed on seed packets or plastic inserts. You can get a head start on the season by planting outdoors earlier and using Wall O'Water or other such season extenders. If purchasing tomato plants from a nursery or garden center, be sure to get high quality, semi-hardened transplants. Avoid tall, spindly plants. A good transplant should be as wide as it is tall, have a stem that is as thick as a pencil, and dark green foliage. It is preferable to get plants without blossoms or fruit. If blossoms or fruit are present, pinch them off to prevent a delay in vegetative growth and flowering.

To minimize chemical use, be sure to purchase disease-resistant varieties. Take care when removing the plants from flats or pots. Damaged root systems will delay growth of the plant. If the transplant has a long stem, "trench" it in by burying the stem laterally. This buried portion of stem will then send out roots. Plant each tomato deeper than it was growing in its pot, burying it up to within three or four branches from its top. Firm the soil around the plant and water lightly. Planting within a shallow collar made from tin cans or toilet paper rolls will discourage cutworms. You may want to use a floating row-cover to protect the young plants from wind, sun, temperature fluctuations and flying insects. Once the tomato plants are established, you can remove the row covers and support the plants with cages or by staking. Supporting the plants helps to keep the fruit off of the ground, reducing damage from ground rot and slugs.

MULCH: After the soil warms up completely, mulch your plants with commercial plastic or fabric, bark, straw or dried grass clippings. The mulch should be several inches deep and close to the plants. This will help to control weeds, keep soil temperature constant, reduce water loss, and keep the fruit clean.

WATER: Apply water at regular intervals, soaking to a depth of 8-10 inches to keep the soil uniformly moist. Avoid fluctuations that may cause blossom drop, blossom end rot, or cracked fruit. Continue to water regularly until late August, avoiding prolonged wilting. After this time, fruit will ripen more quickly when water is withheld.

FERTILIZER: Fertilize seedlings weekly with a liquid fertilizer, such as a seaweed/fish emulsion mix , using one ounce of fertilizer to one gallon of water. Or you may want to try one of the commercial water-soluble fertilizers available, such as Rapid Gro or Miracle Grow, for example. After plants are well established, continue to provide additional fertilization every week to 10 days. Discontinue fertilizing after the first part of August because it will induce vine growth at the expense of ripening the fruit.

HARVEST: Harvest mature green tomatoes in the fall before a killing frost is expected. Wrap the green fruit individually in newspaper and store in a cool place (60° to 65° F). Unwrap and allow ripening in a window as needed. Immature green tomatoes may be harvested and used for frying or making jams, relishes or pickles. Once the tomato plants have become established, there is little else to do but sit back and relax, open your cookbook and begin planning what to do with the harvest.

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Growing Tomatoes in the Home Garden Video:

5 tips for ... growing tomatoes in pots

Here are some tips for potted tomatoes.

1. Give them room. Most slicing tomatoes need a 5-gallon pot, though you can find cherry tomato plants that will do well in hanging baskets. Some varieties are specially bred to stay small enough for a tight container. Make sure the container has drainage holes.

2. Use good soil. In pots as in the ground, tomatoes need well-drained soil with lots of organic matter. Gensch likes to add a little bit of lime to provide extra calcium (which helps prevent blossom end rot). Put a couple inches of gravel in the bottom to stabilize the pot, because when the fruit sets the plant will be top-heavy. And add stakes or a tomato cage for support when you plant.

3. Plant deep. Leave only the top two or three sets of leaves above the soil line. The part of the stem that is buried will sprout roots that help support and strengthen the plant.

4. Fertilize properly. Choose a fertilizer that is not heavy on nitrogen (which fosters leaves at the expense of flowers and fruit). Phosphorus (for roots) and potassium (for blooms) are more important. Whether the fertilizer is organic or not, the guaranteed analysis of major elements on the label should be even, such as 3-3-3, or higher on the last two numbers, such as 4-6-5.

5. Water regularly. Tomatoes need consistent moisture; swinging between extremes of wet and dry can do them in. Be prepared to water daily. Gensch says water-holding gels (sold in crystal form and mixed in the soil) are especially good for rooftop tomatoes.

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5 tips for ... growing tomatoes in pots Video :

Growing tomatoes in pots

This is my first attempt at growing tomatoes in containers, I have put the tomato plants in pots long the sun facing part of my house, you could just as easy put them on a balcony or on a windowsill, I bought plants from a local plant nursery and opted for four varieties of tomatoes, roma, cherry, beefsteak tomato and an Australian tomato called " Burkes Back Yard " , and is a form of the Rouge de Marmande. I did not opt too grow the tomatoes from seed, there are so many places you can buy quality, fungal free tomato plants at now, they supply a number of different tomato varieties that are hard to propagate from seeds, buying ready plants will help ensure your success and get you closer to the most important part which is the eating of your fruit. The tomatoes came potted in small seedling pots, they need to be replanted into larger pots so the tomatoes have room to grow bigger.

One month later I have been watering the tomatoes about every three days, however as small fruit is now beginning to appear I have started watering the tomatoes daily. I have been removing some of the larger lateral leaves as well. 8 Weeks Tomato Plants Daily watering continues, the tomatoes are now well formed and each variety has taken on its unique shape, companion growing has been introduced with the addition of basil plants. 12 weeks yes we have tomatoes The tomatoes have continued to get bigger though have no signs of ripening yet. Some of the basil was attacked by snails and they have been asked to leave.

Growing tomatoes in pots...

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Growing tomatoes in pots Video:

5 Tips for Planting Tomatoes in Pots

5 Tips for Planting Tomatoes in Pots

1. Choose the Largest Containers Possible

Select the biggest pot as possible for your container tomatoes. The more space your tomato has to grow in, the healthier it will be.

Tomato plants grow quickly and as a result require plenty of water, sun, and food in order to accommodate that growth. Their speed means roots grow fast. Plants develop extensive root systems but in containers, their reach is limited. As a result, root systems in tomato pots can become root-bound. You can offset that problem by giving tomato plants a roomy home. You’ll have the most success if you use tomato pots that are 5 gallons or larger and that have at least one square foot of surface growing space. (Read more about choosing containers and pots for tomatoes.)

2. Choose Varieties Specifically for Containers

The best types of tomatoes to grow in containers are bush varieties, dwarf varieties, short-season varieties, and determinate varieties – for obvious reasons: they don’t get as big as other types of tomatoes, they mature faster, and they finish growing at a certain point in the season. Buy tomato seedlings rather than starting your plants from seed to give your container tomatoes a strong start. Extra tip: plant one plant per container so it doesn’t compete with other tomato plants or companion plants for space, water, and nutrients.

3. Choose a Healthy Potting Mix

Tomatoes grown in containers need a loose, well-drained soil with lots of organic matter. Successful gardeners recommend using a good potting mix rather than potting soil or garden soil. Potting soil can be too heavy for containers. Soil harvested straight from the garden is most likely infested with fungi, weed seeds, and pests. Learn what to look for in a good potting mix and how to save money by making your own. Extra tip: moisten your potting mix slightly before planting.

4. Choose a Sunny Spot

Tomatoes need at least 6-8 hours of full sun a day. Before planting tomatoes in pots, choose a spot for your containers – one where they get enough light. Monitor the spot at regular intervals during the day to track exposure.

5. Choose Easy Access to a Water Source

One of the biggest dangers to container tomatoes is that the soil dries out. During a heat wave you may need to water them daily. Whether you set your tomato pots near your garden hose or you have a convenient way to water them with a pitcher or watering can, make sure you have easy access to a water source. You will use it!

Growing Cherry Tomatoes

Growing Cherry Tomatoes

Most cherry tomato varieties grow to be huge plants, so they’re generally not suitable for container gardening. Determinate cherry varieties are exceptions however, as they're almost bred exclusively for container gardening.

When transplanting cherry tomato plants into the garden, remove all but the top set of leaves on the plant and bury the entire stem all the way up to those leaves. This is step is important in growing cherry tomatoes, because it will establish a bigger root formation for the yet-to-be-huge plants. The entire stem that was burrowed will develop into one big root from which side roots are spawned. This will allow the plant to gather additional nutrients in the ground as well as make it stronger.

Tomato cages are recommended for growing cherry tomatoes because they will help capitalize on plant size and fruit production. A primitive cage can be homemade from fencing material or PVC pipes. A properly sized cage should be at least two feet across and six feet tall. Other types of support like stakes could also be used, but whatever you do use, be sure to set them up early- driving stakes into the plant roots right when they're about to fruit is not a very good idea!

Most cherry tomatoes varieties are extremely prolific, so fertilize often and regularly, about every 2 weeks or so. Water-soluble fertilizers like MiracleGro penetrate deep into the ground to maximize nutrient uptake from the roots. Thus they’re the easiest fertilizers to use when growing cherry tomatoes. Increase fertilization when the fowers first set to increase fruit production.

Preserving Your Harvest
We all know that cherry tomatoes make fabulous snacks when picked fresh out of the garden, but they also taste great when preserved. Dried cherry tomatoes are prepared by cutting each tomato in half and adding salt and seasoning (if desired). The tomato halves are then dried in a dehydrator, after which they could be stored for quite a while.

Dehydrators take the water content out of the tomatoes to make them preservable. The process also condenses tomato flavor, making dried tomatoes intensely flavorful. If you think fresh tomatoes taste good, then just wait until you taste them dried!

Regular dried cherry tomatoes can be preserved in olive oil and are great for Italian cuisine. Super sweet varieties like Sun Gold and Sweet Hundred taste almost like raisins when dried and are great for snacking. All in all, the experience of preserving your own harvest makes all serve to make growing cherry tomatoes more enjoyable.
Growing Tomatoes in Pots

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Why Grow Heirloom Tomatoes?

Why Grow Heirloom Tomatoes?

Growing Tomatoes in Pots
The most appealing feature of heirloom tomatoes is their complex flavor, which hybrid varieties tend to lack. Because the point of growing tomatoes is to eat them in the end, many gardeners value the highly prized taste of heirlooms over their shortcomings .

Starting Heirloom Tomato Seeds
You will most likely be starting heirloom tomato plants from seeds, because few stores carry heirloom plants for sale. Hybrids on the other hand, are overwhelmingly popular because of their reliability and productivity. You might find some heirloom varieties in your local nursery, but chances are that they do not carry the specific varieties you would like.

Because heirloom tomato varieties are not as disease resistant as modern hybrid varieties, care should be taken to minimize the exposure to diseases and harm in all steps of the growing process.

Heirloom tomato seeds should be sown in a soiless growing medium to minimize the risk of bacteria. After they are at least 6 inches tall, heirloom tomato plants must be hardened off before transplanting outside. The process of hardening involves a gradual, increased exposure of the plants to the outdoors. Hardening is needed because the plants are reared indoors and they are not used to the harsher conditions outside. Plants that are transplanted into the garden too quickly risk getting sunburns and windburns.

Hardening Off
To start the hardening process, choose a nice, calm day and leave the plants outside for two hours before bringing them in. After doing this for a few days, gradually increase the hours of exposure outside until the plants look ready. If done correctly, the plants should have grown a little bigger after this process. If at any time the plants receive burns (whitish marks on the leaves), bring them in for a few days before starting the process over again.

Transplanting into the Garden
Before transplanting heirloom tomato plants into the garden, remove all but the top two sets of leaves. Dig a deep hole for the plant and pad the interior with compost and if you want, add a few tablespoons of slow-release fertilizer. Set the plant in and bury the stem all the way up to the top two sets of leaves. This practice encourages root formation from the stem, resulting in a better root system that can take in additional nutrients.

Fertilization
Fertilize regularly (every 2-3 weeks), but do not overdo it. Organic fertilizers are preferred because they tend to bring out the best of heirloom tomatoes’ rich flavors. Most growers agree that the natural ingredients in organic fertilizers improve flavor more than chemical fertilizers, and flavor is what we’re looking for when growing heirlooms.

Watering
Watering plants should be best done in the morning when it’s cool. Hold the hose low and water the ground so as not to splash mud on leaves. An automated drip irrigator is a terrific watering system.
Pruning
Pruning the plants maybe something you should consider when growing heirloom tomatoes. Pruning off suckers is a tradeoff between decreased overall fruit production and increased fruit size and quality. Because flavor is such an important part of heirlooms, pruning might be worth it, especially for big-sized tomatoes. If you’re not satisfied with the fruit size or want to hasten fruit formation, then you should prune.

Saving Heirloom Tomato Seeds
If you want to save heirloom tomato seeds for next year from this year’s fruits, then different tomato varieties should be separated as far as possible to minimize cross-breeding, which can produce unexpected results.

Growing Tomatoes in Pots :how-to-grow-tomatoes

Growing Tomatoes in Containers

Growing Tomatoes in Containers
There are a lot of upsides to growing tomatoes in containers. With containers, you can to grow tomatoes almost anywhere. They provide additional flexibility in that you can control the growing medium, which will protect plants from pests and diseases. Not to mention that you can achieve amazing results that you could not have achieved otherwise.

All tomato varieties can be grown in containers. But the bigger the plant size, the more maintenance is required to upkeep the plant.

Choosing the Right Container
The minimum size container you should use is 5 gallons. Although you could go as small as 3 gallons for varieties like 4th of July, smaller containers mean more watering and more fertilization. Bigger containers are better in reducing the frequency of these needs.

You might ask, where do you find these containers? Look around the house and see if you’ve got any 5-gallon buckets lying around. If not you could always buy some containers at the store. 18-gallon Rubbermaid storage boxes are inexpensive ($3-4 at Walmart) and are big enough to fit up to 2 plants.

You may also look toward plastic grow bags as a cheap and convenient alternative to conventional containers. These are basically foldable bags that can stand upright when filled with soil. They come in all sizes from 5 to 20 gallons. They work well and are easy to clean up after the growing season has ended.

And if you’re desperate looking for containers, you could always grow tomato plants in bags of compost. No I’m not joking… just lay the 40lb bag flat on the ground, cut a square opening on the top surface, and poke some drainage holes underneath. Obviously this method is not suitable for indoors. Outdoors, set up a cage around the bag after the plant has been set in. If you desire, you can bury the bag with leaves or some other mulch for appearance and protection.

Container Growing Medium
There are a lot of options as to what growing medium can be used in containers. Regular garden soil and potting soil will work, but you can and should do much better than that. Many gardeners use professional growing mixes, such as those made by MiracleGro and ProMix. These are usually pricey, so the alternative is to make your own. The basic formula for a good mixture is 40% peat moss, 40% compost, and 20% perlite. The peat moss and perlite greatly enhances drainage, which is very important for container gardening. These ingredients come cheap when bought in big packages, especially at end of the season sales.

Watering
Growing tomatoes in containers is notorious for watering needs. Water evaporates faster in containers and need to be replaced constantly. Mulching will greatly reduce your watering needs. Grass clippings and red pine bark can be used for mulch. You can also set up a container watering kit to automate the watering process.

Fertilization
Fertilization is crucial for container success. Tomatoes grown in containers need to be fertilized more often, as much as once per week for the smaller containers. Chemical fertilizers like MiracleGro are ideal, because they work efficiently and reduce damage to your garden soil if used in containers.

Staking and Pruning
Stakes for container tomato plants should be set up on the outside (if that’s possible) where they could be set firmer into the ground, for wind protection. Pruning might be necessary if the plants are growing way too big.
Growing Tomatoes in Pots
Growing tomatoes in pots: how-to-grow-tomatoes-upside-down.

How to Grow Tomatoes Upside Down

How to Grow Tomatoes Upside Down

One of the newer, more innovative approaches to the art of growing tomatoes have been growing tomatoes upside down. Tomato plants grown this way have been observed to bear increased yields when compared to plants grown the "normal" way (right side up) in containers.

This increased productivity is due to increased air circulation to the leaves when the plant is hanging in midair, more disease resistance from avoiding contact with garden soil, and improved nutrient absorption from watering and fertilizing from the bottom of the plant. But the best thing about growing tomatoes this way is that staking is not needed! Growing downwards, the entire weight of the plant will be evenly distributed through all its branches.

You can grow any variety of tomatoes upside down. However, smaller fruited varieties are preferred, for obvious reasons. But with any variety, if the plant gets too big and starts to touch the ground, simply cut off the growing tip to stop vertical growth, and the plant will develop laterally. A few varieties that are more suitable for being grown upside down are Early Girl, Sun Gold, Bush Celebrity, and Pink Ping Pong.

Some pruning may be needed to keep plants under control. Thankfully, pruning is an easy task when the plant is grown upside down, as the branches are more accessible. Very large plants that bear a lot of fruits all at once are not desirable for growing tomatoes upside down. The last thing you want is to have the container collapse from the weight of all the fruit, which is really, really bad for the plant. Unless you have a very solid container, it's preferrable to prune the plants to a manageable size. Yes you won't see maximum fruit production via pruning, but you will be maximizing the efficiency of the tomato plant. A well-pruned plant will bear less fuits at one time, but the fruits will ripen faster and be of higher quality than a plant that's not pruned.

Building an Upside Down Planter
The ideal planter for growing tomatoes upside down is a 5 gallon bucket with a metal handle. Studies have shown that 5 gallons is the ideal container size to maximize the space/production ratio of tomato plants.

A light growing medium should be used. A good mixture would be 50% sphagnum peat moss, 30% compost, and 20% perlite. Here are the steps to building an upside down planter for growing tomatoes upside down:

1. Drill a hole about 3” in diameter on the bottom of the bucket
2. Prepare your tomato transplant by removing all but its top set of (big) leaves.
3. Hang the bucket right-side-up with its handle somewhere low so you can reach to the bottom. Remove your transplant from its container and carefully stick the plant through drilled hole so that the plant is sticking out from the bottom of the bucket. Hold the plant in place so that there is about an inch of stem sticking out of the bottom.
4. With one hand holding the plant, start packing peat moss inside the bucket around the stem all the way up to its roots. Evenly distribute the moss around the bucket, and carefully let go of the plant, making sure that it’s securely anchored inside the bucket.
5. Fill the bucket with the tomato growing mixture until about an inch from the top.
6. Hang the bucket at its final destination where it will reside and water thoroughly. Note that most varieties will grow to at least 5 feet, so keep that in mind when choosing where to place the plant. Once the plant has grown to a respectable size, it's not advisable to move the planter around, as that will disrupt root formation and possibly break a few branches.
7. About 5 days after transplanting, fertilize from the top with a water-soluble fertilizer.

And there you have it, a good-to-go tomato plant grown upside down. Like all container vegetables, make sure to water and fertilize it regularly. Mulching the opening of the planter is also recommended to prevent evaporation and water loss. Red pine mulch is the most popular, but you can also cut up a black garbage bag and use that cover the opening of the bucket. Tie the bag around the bucket with a piece of string, and cut an opening on the bag where water and fertilizers can enter.

An automated container drip watering system can also be set up with your upside down planters. This reduces the hassles of watering.
Growing Tomatoes in Pots...

HOW TO GROW TOMATOES

Things You'll Need:

Gardening Gloves
Hanging Baskets
Potting Soil
Garden Trowels
Garden Hoses
Shovels
Fertilizer Analyzer
Tomato Seeds
Eggshells
Compost Makers
Garden Stakes
Tomato Plants
Fertilizers
Cloches

Step 1

Buy tomato plants at the nursery for planting after all danger of frost has passed. Otherwise, start seeds indoors six to eight weeks before the last expected frost.
Step 2

Choose a site that gets full sun and has soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0. Tomatoes need plenty of warmth to taste their best, so provide shelter from chilly breezes, whether with a windbreak of trees, a garden wall, or a vine-covered trellis.
Step 3

Amend the soil with plenty of compost; tomatoes need soil rich in organic matter.
Step 4

Harden off seedlings, whether store-bought or homegrown, and move them to the garden when nighttime temperatures remain above 50 degrees F.
Step 5

Dig a hole the size of a basketball for each plant. Add a shovelful of compost and a handful of crushed eggshells (for needed calcium) to each hole.
Step 6

Set the plants 12 to 18 inches apart depending on variety (see the seed packet or plant label). Plant them deeply - up to the fourth branch from the top - to encourage new root development.
Step 7

Place a paper collar around each plant to deter cutworms, and cover the plants with cloches or floating row covers to protect them from insects and cool temperatures.
Step 8

Remove the covers when the weather has warmed, mulch the soil and install any supports the plants will need as they grow.
Step 9

Make sure plants get between one and two inches of water every week, and to ensure a bumper crop, spray them with compost tea or seaweed extract four times: two weeks after transplanting, after the first flowers appear, when the fruits reach the size of golf balls, and when you spot the first ripe tomato.
Step 10

Pick tomatoes when their color is glossy and even, and their texture midway between soft and firm.
Growing tomatoes in pots....9-tomato-growing-tips

9 Tomato Growing Tips that will Significantly Boost Production

9 Tomato Growing Tips that will Significantly Boost Production

These 9 little things are easy to do, but will make a big impact on your tomato growing results.

1. Deep Transplanting
This is the most important growing tomato tip that will most likely affect your success: When first transplanting tomato plants into the garden, remove all but the top set of the leaves. Dig a deep hole, and burrow the entire stem up to the top leaves, which should be sticking just a little above ground. Transplanting like this will cause the entire stem that was burrowed to turn into root, creating a strong root foundation for the tomato plant. That plant will be able to take in more nutrients and grow bigger and healthier as a result. Fertilize 5 days after transplanting. (Fertilizing too early before the roots are established can harm the roots).

2. Automated Drip Watering
Consider using drip irrigation with an automatic timer for all your watering needs. Drip irrigation provides regular and even watering, which is good for tomato plants. Studies have also shown that dripping allows water to penetrate deeper into the ground, thus increasing uptake by plant roots.

3. Mulching
Use mulch to reduce water consumption when watering plants, especially in containers. Mulching will greatly reduce water loss due to evaporation. It will also act like a carpet on the growing area, covering up the soil and keeping the area clean to hinder pests and diseases. Red pine mulch is ideal, but lots of things can be used as mulch, including plastic wrapping.

4. Fertilizing
Here’s another important tomato growing tip: fertilize tomato plants regularly (every 2-3 weeks). Follow the directions given for the particular brand of fertilizer you’re using. Choose fertilizers low in nitrogen to prevent getting tomato “trees” that don’t bear fruit. Do not over-fertilize, as that will release excess nutrients which encourages bacteria growth and pests.

5. Foliar Feeding
Occasionally, spray tomato plant leaves with a very mild fertilizer (a much more dilute version of the fertilizer you use for the ground). This improves plant growth and enhances fruit formation.

6. Stake Early
Plant stakes and implement them when tomato plants are young to avoid disrupting root formation later. Note that when staking tomatoes grown in containers, the stakes should be planted on the outside (if possible) where it will be stronger. Here’s a good tomato growing tip for staking- PVC pipes make excellent tomato cages. They’re clean, cheap and easy to setup around a tomato plant. Use linen to bind the branches to the pipes.

7. Harvest Regularly
Harvest tomatoes as soon as they turn red and can be easily snapped off. The sooner ripe fruits are off the plant, the quicker new fruits are formed.

8. Spawning New Plants from Suckers
Here’s a tomato growing tip you probably did not know. Notice those things that grow between the main branches on your tomato plants? They’re called suckers, and they grow to form a new branch or a flower cluster. People who like to prune remove them to encourage fruit production. Once cut off, suckers will develop their own roots if they're put in a glass of water and taken good care of. Place the glass in a dark place and wait a day or two for root formation. Afterwards, take the sucker and plant it in a container and watch it grow. Voila! You have cloned a brand new tomato plant from your existing variety.

9. Boosting Fruit Production when the Season's about to End
When the growing season is almost over or if you live with a short growing season and wish to hasten production, prune off any new suckers on your tomato plants and also cut off their vertical growing tips. This will divert energy into fruit formation and will hasten the ripening of any existing fruits. Growing tomatoes in pots..
growing-tomatoes-in-container

Grow Tomatoes Anywhere in a Pot

Grow Tomatoes Anywhere in a Pot

Since we don’t all have room for a traditional tomato garden either because the yard is too small or for apartment dwellers there is no yard. Growing tomatoes in pots is a great way to have a small garden on the patio or apartment grown tomatoes. FInd a spot with enough space for a pot, and enough sunlight and start growing tomatoes in pots this year.

Here are some tips to growing tomatoes in a pot. First, find a spot that has at least 6 to 8 hours of sunlight a day, more if you can find it. Here are some more things to watch for in container grown tomatoes.

Pick the Right Pot - A standard terra cotta pot with a diameter of 12 inches or more is recommended for tomatoes. You want to make sure your tomato roots have room to grow. Ensure good drainage to avoid root rot, pick a container, with drainage holes in the bottom. You may want to add a layer of rock to keep the holes draining. There are many alternatives to a standard clay pot, barrels are a common choice.

Tomato Varieties - Just as important as the choice of a good pot is the choice of a variety suited to the pot you’ve chosen. The biggest limitation with growing tomatoes in a pot is keeping the plant adequately watered. Choosing a variety that has a lower water demand is key to keeping them strong over the hot dry summer months. Many varieties sold as patio tomatoes are determinate which means they grow to a certain size and then stop, but they only bear over just a few weeks. Similar in size are “dwarf indeterminate” varieties, which have a smaller, stockier growth pattern but will bear for a much longer time. Some good varieties include Patio, Pixie, Tiny Tim, Tumbling Tom and Small Fry. These have the added advantage of not needing as much support or staking.

Soil - A key need os lots of organic matter to help retain moisture in the pot. An alternative is to use a soilless mix of sphagnum peat, perlite, and vermiculite to avoid any concerns with soil borne diseases, and to retain moisture. Plant the tomato plants relatively deep, up to the first set of leaves. This will help develop the strong root system that container grown plants need.

Fertilizing Tomatoes - Tomatoes are heavy feeders, so you will want to mix in a slow acting fertilizer at planting time, and then may want to add a side dressing of fertilizer every 2 to 4 weeks.

Self Watering Planters - Tomato plants typically need at least one inch of water a week, but in a pot they may need more since the pot can get pretty warm in the summer months. If you live in an area that has warm summers you may want to consider a self watering planter like the Earthbox system to reduce the number of times you need to add water.

Growing tomatoes in pots...